13 Questions You Must Ask ANY Labrador Breeder

(and my answers at the bottom!)

1. Have the parents been genetically health tested?

Have the breeder show you the test results for Exercise Induced Collapse (EIC), Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA), Centronuclear Myopathy (CNM), and Degenerative Myelopathy (DM) at a minimum. ALL of these DEBILITATING diseases are controlled by recessive genes, which means that both parents can be carriers of the disease but not actually HAVE the disease. 25% of the puppies from those parents however will actually suffer from the disease. Several of these diseases don’t show up until the dog is 2-3 years of age and cannot be detected through a puppy “vet check”. ONLY genetic testing of the parents can guarantee your pup will not suffer from these life-shortening diseases. A breeder saying the parents are healthy or “we’ve never had any problems” is not good enough when it comes to genetic diseases that are common in the Labrador.

2. Where were the puppies born and raised?

If they were raised outside in a barn/stall, you need to ensure your puppy has been WELL cared for and socialised. You can expect your puppy to NOT be potty trained OR crate trained – this will be more work for you. If raised outside, your puppy will likely have been exposed to higher levels of worms and flea concentrations, dirtier conditions and less human contact. You should be able to visit where the breeder keeps their dogs and see where your puppy was born/raised. Be mindful that this may be by appointment and newborn puppies may be off-limits for their own health and welfare. Some breeders only allow “approved” families to visit, in order to avoid getting applicants’ hopes up and to minimise continual requests from strangers wishing to come to their home.

3. How old are the puppies when we get to bring them home?

If the breeder is letting the puppies go any younger than 8 weeks of age, they are breaking the ethics code of most kennel clubs around the world. It is a well known fact that puppies need that time both with adult dogs AND littermates to learn some of the basic behavioral aspects like bite inhibition and proper dog greeting/social interactions. Puppies who have been removed from their mum or siblings at a young age tend to have more issues with separation anxiety, new situations, and biting. Just because a puppy is eating solid food and no longer nursing does not mean it is old enough to leave its littermates or mum.

4. Have the parents been hip and elbow scored?

Have the breeder show you the scoring results. While hip and elbow health of the parents plays a role in the hip/elbow health of the offspring, environment ALSO plays a big factor. From the moment the puppies were born, improper care (surfaces they were on, exercise they received, food they were fed) can impact the resulting hip and elbow health of your pup. A good breeder will have hip/elbow scored the parents and made appropriate breeding decisions as a result of those scores. They also will have taken into consideration how best to support hip and elbow growth while the puppies were within their care.

5. Were the puppies conditioned to sights, sounds, smells, textures, water, cats, children, etc.?

Good breeders start conditioning their puppies at just 3 days of age using the early neurological stimulation method, playing conditioning CDs and exposing the puppies to the right amount of new stimulation at the right time. The results are puppies that are confident and better adjusted as adults. Breeders that do not do these things tend to produce pups that are timid or afraid of new things including thunderstorms, fireworks, vacuum cleaners, etc.

6. Did the puppies have a full health check by a vet?

Ask to see the vet check health booklet. There should be a specific booklet for EACH puppy which shows when the exam was done, any significant vet findings, when puppies were wormed, when vaccinations were given, flea treatments, microchipping, etc.

7. Were the puppies identified by collars from birth onwards?

This shows that the breeder was tracking each individual puppy’s development and health… that each individual puppy was monitored and cared for. Individual identification also allows you to see your puppy from the earliest moments in both photos and videos (which the breeder should be taking).

8. Why did you produce this specific litter of puppies?

A breeder should be able to tell you what they hoped to achieve with each litter that they breed. Their response should be thorough and at a minimum should take into account the health, temperament, and abilities of both parents.

9. Do you offer a written guarantee?

A good breeder stands behind their puppies for LIFE. They will take back ANY puppy they have bred at any time for any reason because they loved that puppy first and only want the very best for it.

10. Can you share with me other previous puppy owners that I may contact?

A good breeder should be happy to put you in touch with other puppy owners. If the breeder says that they cannot share that information due to privacy issues or because they don’t want to “bother” their puppy families… run. Families that are happy with their puppies are happy to share all about them! I mean after all, who doesn’t want to talk about their dog? A good breeder will stay in regular contact with their puppy families in order to ensure things are going well and also to get feedback so that they can be sure they are making the best future breeding choices possible. You want a breeder that is easy to reach… not only BEFORE you bring your puppy home but also AFTERWARDS. A good breeder will be there for you and your puppy for the life of your Labrador.

11. Tell me about your adult dogs.

How does the breeder treat their adult dogs? What are they fed? Where do they live? What stimulation do they get? How well trained are they? These questions will give you insight into the quality of the breeder, what their dogs mean to them… and ultimately how important your puppy is to them as well. Since your Labrador is to be a family member, you want to ensure it came from an environment where its parents were family members. Labradors are a very social dog breed. They thrive when surrounded by their family and even the mundane aspects of family life. A good breeder will treat their Labs like family and love/protect them just as intensely.

12. Will the puppies be registered with the NZ Kennel Club (Dogs NZ)?

This is a professional society of dog breeders, competitors and owners. While it doesn’t guarantee a quality breeder (or puppy), it does show a level of commitment to dog welfare. You may not care if your puppy has registered papers or can enter a show ring, but having the pedigree of your puppy is knowing the history/ancestry behind your pup and shows that the breeder took these factors into consideration when producing the litter. If the puppies will not be registered with Dogs NZ, ask why? It may be because the breeder has not done the (very minimal!) genetic and health testing that is required by Dogs NZ before a litter is registered. If they haven't done the minimal health testing to ensure they are producing a genetic disease-free litter, do you really want a puppy from there?

13. What questions do you have for me?

A good breeder will ask YOU a lot of questions – about your family situation, your previous dog ownership, your home setup, what your hopes are for your puppy. If not, it’s a good sign that they are not too concerned with who has their puppies or what becomes of them. A good breeder will ask you more questions than you are likely to ask them. They want to be sure they are placing one of their precious pups in a good environment and that the placement will work for both the family AND the puppy. A good breeder will actually turn people away that they do not feel are a good fit.

 Skylit’s Answers

You can ask me these questions and any others you may have, but here are my starter answers for you!

  1. All of my Labs are genetic health tested for EIC, PRA, CNM and DM but I ALSO test for HPNK, Cystinuria and SD2 as well as several colour/coat traits. Their results are posted on their individual pages but I also share a link with my puppy families where they can access the actual reports.

  2. Skylit has just relocated to a FABULOUS property just for the dogs! It’s 40 acres of ponds, streams, hills and trees. I’m currently converting a woolshed into a lavish facility for the dogs and in 2023 will hopefully begin construction of the dogs and my new home — an integrative design I’m super excited about. Needless to say, all of my dogs live in a home environment and so their puppies do as well. As my puppy families will attest, my puppies are mostly potty trained and crate trained when they leave Skylit. They also do not tend to go through the several nights of crying that most puppies go through when they first arrive in their new homes.

  3. I prefer my pups to stay until 10 weeks of age but will let them go to their new families at 8 weeks if ready and desired. There are benefits of a puppy staying until 10 weeks of age at Skylit. I discuss these advantages with my puppy families when we are planning their puppy’s departure from Skylit.

  4. I use two different scoring methods for my breeding dogs -- Pennhip and OFA. The results from both of these scores factor into my breeding decisions. I also ensure my pups have good footing when they are first born as well as in their custom designed play yards.

  5. I am a firm believer in early neurological stimulation as well as desensitising/conditioning CDs. Once the puppies are old enough, they have their own play yard filled with stimulating textures and surfaces. They are regularly around adult dogs, livestock and more with regular exploration outings.

  6. My vet clinic is one of my “Favourite” contacts! They know me and my dogs well. All of my puppies get a VERY thorough vet check before leaving Skylit. Each individual puppy's health check booklet details the results of that visit as well as the worming and flea treatment protocol used while at Skylit. I also microchip all puppies and that info is also included.

  7. I know what it is like to be a puppy family in waiting and DYING for photos. I put soft cotton collars on the puppies at birth and keep the same colour collars on them until they leave Skylit when taking photos. This way families can look back and see their puppy from the very beginning. I am also happy to give puppy families a memory stick full of all of their puppy's photos and videos. While all of this is nice for the families, it is also important to me for tracking purposes. I weigh the puppies every day for the first two weeks to ensure everyone is gaining appropriately. After the first two weeks the puppies are weighed weekly to ensure ongoing proper weight gain. Having the puppies wear collars also helps me to easily see personality traits as I can quickly distinguish who is who. It helps me to know each puppy better which in turn ensures a better fit with potential families.

  8. Skylit Labradors always reserves first pick of every litter produced. The reason for that is because I have produced that litter for a specific purpose. It may be to further my Therapy Dog program. It may be for a specific set of traits that I need for my future breeding program -- such as strong scent drive or an improvement in conformation. In general though, my goals are to produce the best puppies possible for families. I want my Labs to be life changers in all aspects -- whether they are providing emotional support to those with disabilities, a hunter's best retriever, someone's best friend, or a pet that is never forgotten long after they are gone.

  9. You can find Skylit’s written guarantee HERE.

  10. Join the Skylit Labradors Fans group on Facebook and you can reach MANY of my puppy families. I encourage you to ask them what it is like owning a Skylit Lab.

  11. Most of my adult Labs live with me at Skylit. Many of my Labs have gone through Canine Good Citizen training and are titled. Several of my Labs volunteer as Therapy Dogs within the community through Lend a Paw Labs. I am a regular at dog training and also have Skylit Puppy parties and outings with my puppy families regularly. My Labs get road trips near and far. I am rarely without one or two tagging along even when I’m just running errands in town. Birthdays are celebrated with special treats and every night before bed I review with the dogs special things that happened that day and what is on tap for the next day. (I promise… I’m not crazy. Maybe a bit dog-crazy though!) My dogs are my 24/7 passion. Some will say they are spoiled. I just say they are dearly loved and very much members of my family.

  12. Most Skylit Lab puppies are not registered with Dogs NZ (the NZ Kennel Club) because of their ruling on the "dilute" gene (which differs from the American Kennel Club where many of my dogs were initially registered). I am however a financial member of Dogs NZ and Skylit is my registered kennel name with Dogs NZ. Even though I do more genetic and health testing than required by Dogs NZ and would stack my approach to breeding and raising Labs up against any others out there, I am limited in terms of being able to register my puppies with Dogs NZ due to my support of the dilute gene. I do however provide online access to each of our litter's parents and/or grandparents registration papers so that every puppy family has the pedigree/ancestry information on their puppy. I also apply for Dogs NZ registration for all litters that meet Dogs NZ’s dilute gene requirements.

  13. If you've completed the Skylit application process, you already know I ask a lot of questions! Rest assured, it is all part of my process of making sure there is a good fit between both my puppies and potential puppy families.